20 November 2003
Stewy opened the official season of outdoors evening and night climbing by managing to Sandbag himself on Muesli! Heh heh, it seems Stu had forgotten Muesli's reputation for rejecting leaders, and started up the route (numerous cams in tow) full of confidence. Alas, the pump acquired on the layback flake at the start that is notorious for eating arm strength got the best of Dr Nick near the top and he took a 3m fall onto cams which saved his butt from a serious bruising on the big sharp boulder at the base.
Tom, not to be outdone, led Muesli after successfully seconding it only half an hour earlier. It seemed that Tom (who is yet to make it into double figures leading) was going to make it until an unfortunate Z-clip burnt the rest of his energy within spitting distance of the top..... several curse words later, and an impressive attempt at unclipping the lower quickdraw, Major Tom found himself in space...... errrr Houston? We have a problem.
While Stu followed Tom up Muesli, determined not to let it get the better of him, Quang started up Clea Direct, with it's interesting and intimidating roof near the top. Stu spent several minutes working on removing the cam that had saved him from a nasty landing which ironically turned out to be exactly the piece needed by Quang to protect the roof..... Needless to say, Quang found it to be a little dicey contemplating the roof without the pro needed to complete the onsight, and decided that resting on gear was going to be the best bet. Placing a number 12 BD Stopper in the crack just below the approach to the roof, Quang rested. Just as Stewy succeeded in removing the vital cam Quang experienced the removal of gear, however this on this occasion the result was neither expected nor welcome..... BANG! the no 12 Stopper above Quang's head blew, narrowly missing his head as it shot out from the rock, sending Quang into freefall for about 5m, leaving him to wonder if the next piece was going to hold as he headed towards Earth, and I shot up into the air. Thankfully the next piece was more secure, and Quang's speedy descent was halted.
Not a bad effort for the first Thursday night back out on the rock, three drops in less than three hours, more than we've had in the last 12 months! All I can say is that I am glad things come in threes, thanks boys, you have hopefully saved me from having to worry about who is next (touch wood)