29 January 2004
Climbing at Boulder Bridge this week saw a few more participants than last week.... It seems that my vitriol aimed at certain "softies" in the group pricked a few consciences and we had our largest turn-out for a long time.
Back from the wilds of South America, Ivor was keen to get back out on the rock and show us what he's made of. As it turned out he is apparently now mostly made up of cocaine receptors: All night Random was complaining about the mosquitoes that were biting him, and crawling on his skin. Errrrrr Ivor there weren't any mozzies, what you were feeling is called withdrawal! Still, he did manage to haul himself up Clea Direct (15), lead Muesli (16), and top rope Extra G (21). Not bad for someone who was asking the trees if they were selling when he wasn't climbing!
Are "Boy's Germs" contagious? Who knows? One thing I can say for sure is that "Climbing Germs" must be! She who will not be photographed, Megan, seems to have well and truly caught the climbing "bug" and ability from Tom. Last night she seconded Tom up the very pumpy and exposed (especially for a beginner) Clea Direct (15) which has a rather tricky roof near the top, only weighting the rope once, and after she had gone through the crux. Next Megan climbed The Thinker (15) in fading light, and managed to climb it clean! True to it's name, The Thinker is not a simple route, it does require skill to climb. Well done Megan.
Quang onsighted Armageddon (12) and then followed this up with an onsight of Cocolossal (15) a tricky route involving a rather blank V-corner in which there is little protection, a "Scrot-hold" and a run-out bulge. Very intimidating indeed!
Also onsighting Cocolossal (in fading light), Stewy managed to come close to donating a cam to the rock, but with a lot of work his extremely talented second was able to finally remove it. (Come to think of it, Stewy should have felt very honoured to have had someone so damn talented agree to second him! In fact it was a bit like having Steve Waugh rock up at the nets and ask if he can play!)
Tom did as Tom does, climb whatever you point him at, (I'm actually thinking that if he gets any better I might have to sabotage his lovely new harness and matching ATC or undo the brake cable on his bike, the damned show-off!)
Meanwhile, Casey Jones (Mark) the Engineer (funny he doesn't look like a train driver), also onsighted Cocolossal (seconding Quang) and The Thinker (seconding Tom in complete darkness).
As for me, well what can I say?? I Climbed a few climbs (never weighted the rope of course), took a few photos (all absolute classics) and offered sage advice to anyone who looked like they needed it; let's face it, I am just an all-round Superstar, where would they be without me? It's tough being so great, and hard to be humble, but somehow I manage it.
Routes completed last night include The Thinker (15), Clea Direct (15), Muesli (16), Cocolossal (15), Armageddon (12) and Extra G (21).
Being the considerate person that I am, I now carry a pair of nail scissors in my pack due to the number of complaints from fellow climbers about the length of their toenails and how they wish they had cut them before putting on their climbing shoes. Once again last night the complaint was heard: "My feet are killing me, I wish I'd cut my toenails today." This time I was able to come to the rescue: "there's a pair of nail scissors in my pack" I called out helpfully. Was I greeted with calls of thanks for my foresight and concern for others? Oh no, dear reader, it seems as though nail scissors aren't good enough for Quang! He only ever cuts his toenails with nail clippers, nail scissors aren't strong enough! Nail scissors aren't good enough for Quang's toes, ooooh no! Well, sorry for caring! Sorry for getting it so stupidly wrong! How thoughtless of me to presume to bring along lowly nail scissors! How can you ever forgive me? I offer my most sincerest of apologies for daring to suggest that you stoop to cutting your toenails with anything other than nail clippers oh great and mighty Strong Toenailed one!
Finally, Boz went under the knife on Tuesday to have his shoulder reconstructed (AGAIN!!!). Hopefully this time they got it right and we will be seeing the Bald Avenger back out on the rock soon. Good Luck Boz. Oh yeah, and thanks for coming home from hospital early Boz and stopping me from going round to visit Karen for a "coffee."
23 January 2004
Howzit, Dr Rudy Here. Ladies (Angie, Megan, Joy and Stewart's Hand), did your man come home last night smelling of wood-smoke, and feeling all randy? Well, the reason behind this strange occurrence is probably due to the fact that your man was out last night lighting bushfires. Yes, that's right, nothing can get the old juices flowing like the lighting of a big raging fire to get his own fire going... So, if you copped it big time last night, now you know why.
As for Adam, well, the Gimp never has problems with softness, so he was out climbing at Boulder Bridge all by himself last night :-( On the list of climbs completed were Brainrack (17) and two ascents of the section of wall between Muesli and Extra G at about grade19/20, all on self belay.
The Gimp then made some new friends who were kind enough to belay him up Mount Olive (17) wearing sneakers, and Extra G (21). In return for their kindness, Adam offered the use of his rope, enabling David and Kara to climb Extra G (21). Many thanks to Sara, Moira, Kara and David.
After the evening's climbing, Adam went to The Scenic Hotel with his new friends to enjoy a medicinal Coopers Pale Ale.
15 January 2004
Last week I described Andrew as being a climbing newcomer, but it seems that when the bug bites, it bites hard! Andrew has dragged Jess out (although I don't think he had to do much talking to convince her) to Morialta just about every day since! Jess also went out and bought a rope and equipment for setting up, and Andrew bought a pair of Dominators! Wow! You guys are serious about this huh?
Last night, Andrew was heard to utter the same questions that every new Dominator owner has voiced to other owners: "Are they supposed to be this tight? I think I need the next size up." "No, seriously these things hurt!" "yeah, but they really hurt, my toes are crimped right up!" "But they will stretch won't they?"
And he got the same answers that everyone else has received: "Yes they are supposed to be tight, you will regret it if you go for a bigger size." "Yes, I know." "Yes, that's how your toes are supposed to be." "Well... they won't stretch, but you will get used to the pain, your feet sort of mould to them rather than the other way around, and you won't notice the pain so much after a while." note: all said with a wry knowing smile, and sly sniggers passed around between knowing owners - heh heh, got another one.
In a later conversation regarding the Dominators and sizing, Stewy, who has the same size feet as Andrew, and one size smaller Dominators (size 44) was heard to exclaim "These things feel like Ugg Boots!" after trying on Andrew's (size 45) shoes. A little more embarrassing for Dr Nick was his comment when discussing shoe sizes: "So what's the next size down from 44?" Errrrrr that would be 43 Stu!
On the topic of 'I wish I never said that' Jess was complaining about how when they were hiking in Tasmania over Christmas she found it hard to sleep with brother Tom (sharing the same tent), as he was tossing all night. A little too much information there Jess! Whoops! forgot to add turning huh?
Tom climbed Gorilla My Dreams (19) with an interesting variant start that I am curious to find out if it has been done before. Starting on the same wall as the direct start but towards the arête to the left, the climb must be at about the 20/21 grade, and has some really funky moves, including some great laybacks, fist jams, crimps and his signature "Scrot-hold." (I won't elaborate on that now, suffice to say that a slip would be disastrous!)
Finally, there was some serious Sandbagging action afoot last night, and it was in a most inventive manner. The New Golden Sandbagger may try to protest his status, but the Gimp sees and knows all, and you have been a naughty boy my friend! I must say, you were very clever about it, but you were caught, and therefore will have to grin and bear it!
Also, good luck to Trish, who has had to move to New South Wales for work. Have fun Trish, maybe you can meet us at Arapiles when we go.
4 January 2004
Okay, who's the idiot who only brought one rope and no statics???
Sorry folks, it was me (Adam)
In my defence, I thought that there would only be three of us, and all leaders, so you can't be too hard on me.
As luck would have it, Quang, Tom, Mark, Adam, Jess and Andrew (Jess's Boyfriend, new to climbing), and Adam were all at the Buttress to climb!
Hmmm, one rope, no statics to set up a Top Rope, and seven climbers all of differing skill levels, what do you do?
Gimp to the rescue! We set up two top ropes with the one rope, with belayers working from the top of the climbs on either side of the Buttress and even set up a climb across the narrow gully on Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start (21), and everyone got to do plenty of climbs! In total we were able to choose from any of a total of 11 routes with the ropes set up as they were! Not bad for one rope huh?
On the climbing front, Tom continues to go from strength to strength, coming up with a contrived route at about grade 19/20 which follows the route taken by The Inverted Rasp (13), but avoids using any of the holds for that route, or anything that looks reasonable, opting instead for small crimps, smeared footholds, and slopers. Tom also ran a couple of laps on top rope of Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start (21) - on his second ascent, Tom got to the top, and was in the process of saying "yep I'm as good as up" when his foot slipped and he missed bagging a clean ascent of the route. D'oh! Missed it by THAT much Tom! Tom also impressed soloing the Buttress Chimney (7), an easy enough looking route until you get to the top and try to exit the route with it's overhanging bulge over your head. Tom is starting to rack up the solo ascents .
1 January 2004
New Year's Day saw two groups climb at different locations.
Victor Harbour
Adam and Quang headed down to Victor Harbour to check out the climbing at the Bluff, and were very impressed by the rock on offer down south.
Both climbed The Pleasure Dome (14) on self belay, with the route being Quang's first self belay climb. Not bad Quang, an overhung and exposed Sea Climb is one hell of a first self belay!
Also on the menu for the day was Mal De Mer (13) a great line with spectacular views and a layback flake followed by a great little traverse that needed some thought to protect.
This was followed by The Gulls! The Gulls! (15) a surprising route that looked more like an approach route than a technical climb..... until you were on it that is! With a great run out to the finish while smearing on slabby granite, this was a great climb, and watching an albatross fly below Quang with the sea as a backdrop as he seconded the route was just something special.
While heading back down to pick up the gear at the bottom of the climbs, Adam spotted a boulder split down the middle and decided that it was worth trying to send it. Being off-width, there was little promise of finding any pro, so after anchoring his spotter (Quang) so that they wouldn't both end up rolling downhill and into the sea in the event of a fall, Adam sent the problem as a highball boulder, naming it "Show me that Map Again" (suggested 18/19), in honour of Tom being away on a hike in Tasmania with female company (We thought he was there with his girlfriend Megan, but it turned out he was there with his sister Jess....... Oh well, they were in Tassie).
Finally, the boys turned their attention to ** (14) on Petrel Rock. Like The Pleasure Dome this route looks impressive no matter which angle you look at it from, with a large fang-like flake hanging down to greet aspiring leaders. Deceptively overhung, and run out, this was a very tricky route, and as the last climb of the day left us with a number of grazes and scratches to remind us of our trip to Victor Harbour.
Morialta
Stewy and Trish headed out to Morialta to climb New Year's Day, and I hear they had a great time, but I am a little sketchy on the details, so I will update this section when the good Dr fills me in.